In Nepal the Sabbath day is Saturday. This is usually the only day off that most Nepalis will get. They work the other 6 days of the week. It is also their day of worship so the temples, shrines, and stupas are crowded with people.
A friend of mine named David and I decided that this Saturday would be our day of escape also. For those of you that know me, you know that I am not what you would call a city slicker. I am more of a country boy than anything and being surrounded by thousands of people, vehicles, and stores is my worst nightmare. I need space, quiet, and an escape from the pollution, so we decided to mount our trusty steeds, (mountain bikes), and ride off into the country.
You still have to wear a pollution mask to get out of the city, but once you are out the clouds and sky come into focus and the brown haze is left behind. You can breath fresh air again and enjoy the day exploring the villages around the city.
We rode to a village called Gadavari. It is located just south of Kathmandu. Once we got to Gadavari we turned down a dirt road and traveled to a remote little village that is not even on the map. The people there looked at us like we were extra terrestrials, and I guess to them we were, but the kids flocked to us. Before long we were surrounded by children wanting to see our bikes and practice the few words they knew in English. They wanted to know where we were going and why we were there. We tried to explain that we were from Kathmandu and we were just out enjoying the hillside but our limited ability to speak Nepali just left them confused.
We rode through terraced hillsides and saw parrots in the trees when we passed through. The people were extremely nice and welcoming to us. This is the Nepal that you read about. This is why Nepal has a reputation for their hospitality. We rode past dozens of shrines and stupas that were filled with people paying their respect to the local dieties. Every block, corner, big tree, or landmark has its own diety and they are feared by the people. We saw a Tibetan Buddhist wedding and a large congregation listening to a sermon by a Buddhist monk.
At the end of our day we had to head back to the city. Back to the pollution. Back to the fighting and the tension. Back to our home. I love the hillsides but they suffer from the worst forms of poverty. It is like stepping back 150 years. People live in mud huts and walk to the nearest creek to get water. Women spin wool and thresh wheat so that they can eat. Men are farmers and shepherds.
At the end of the day I am again thankful for what I have. Running water (most days), Electricity (most days), food, and a concrete roof. I am still spoiled compared to how many of the villagers live.
This has to be the most unusual Thanksgiving that I have ever experienced. Here in Nepal nobody celebrates Thanksgiving, obviously, but we decided that we were thankful and that we should pig out to celebrate it. Three other homesick Americans joined us in our tiny little flat and we huddled around candlesticks and talked about home.
There is no way to have a traditional Thanksgiving feast here. The sweet potatoes are white and you cant find turkey here. On top of that you would have to cook it on a camping stove and there is a real art to baking a turkey on a camping stove.
Shawna found a way to make my favorite sweet potatoes and even though they looked like mashed potatoes, they tasted great. Our turkey was actually a chicken, but who cares. The pumpkin pie was made with boiled pumpkin and a hand made crust and it was so good that you did'nt care that it did not come from Sara Lee.
I am thankful for the food we have, especially when we are surrounded by total poverty. Every day I walk past children who will never get to enjoy a Thanksgiving meal. They go to bed hungry every night and suffer from terrible health problems due to their poor diet. I am reminded about why I am here and how much I have been blessed. I cannot understand why I have been so blessed and why I was not born here. What made me so fortunate? Who am I to complain when I am called to go somewhere that I do not want to go? Who am I to complain about having to do something that makes me uncomfortable? Every day is a constant reminder to be thankful and I think this holiday I have been more thankful than any other time in my life.
This week I have been learning how to drive in Nepal. I know what you are thinking....... Don't you already know how to drive???? Well I do, but only in the US, or probably any other normal place in the world, but not here in Nepal. Driving here is totally different than any other place I have ever seen.
Learning to drive is important for my work. I will have to learn to drive in this mess if I am ever going to get any work done. That means sitting for a new drivers license and taking a driving test. So I started learning this week.
The first thing to keep in mind is that Nepal roads are a bit different from what we are used to. Gravel, dirt, or asphalt may be part of a main highway, often all at the same time.
A tractor, bicycle, cow, and semi trailer may all occupy one lane of traffic at the same time.
You can place your entire family on a motorcycle or bicycle as long as the father is wearing a helmet. It appears that nobody really cares about the other four occupants.
You must wear a seatbelt at all times if one is provided. It is perfectly legal to not wear a seatbelt when hanging from the side of a bus, van, or truck.
The flow of traffic is like a river and to merge with the river you just have to close your eyes and pour your vehicle into the main flow. If you hesitate or act kind you will get yourself killed.
Rear view mirrors are for backing only. You never look into a rear view mirror when driving forward! I am serious. If you do you will take your eyes off the road. You are responsible for what is in front of you only. Who cares what havoc you wreak on the poor souls behind you when you swerve into the oncoming traffic to pass a cow.
The lines on the roadway are apparently only there to show you which direction the road is going. If it looks like a two lane highway it can easily be tansformed into a four lane or more if needed. You are welcome to use the oncoming traffic to support your need to pass another vehicle, even when there are cars in that lane of traffic.
The horn is a courteous gesture. You must always have a properly maintained horn or your vehicle needs to be parked. You must honk anytime you plan on passing someone, going around a corner, or whenever you just want everyone to know you are on the road. The horn is a polite way of telling someone you are there. Some vehicles even have signs that say, "Horn Please."
And Finally, the bicycle is the fastest way to get around in the city and in most parts of the country as well. I pass at least 30 vehicles on the way to work every morning. Remember, the traffic flow is like a river. The little boats can manuvere through all the rapids much faster than the big rafts. Just keep your eyes forward and dont look back. The guy behind you is responsible for not running you over.
I think it is easy to put your head down and just go to work, come home, and exist. That is the temptation for me. I guess it is just a way of dealing with the stress of life. I have to deliberately make time each day to stop and be thankful for where I am, even when I don't want to be there.
Right now Luke and I are battling being sick from the air quality. Just when I thought that the pollution could get no worse. A strong front from the north east blew the pollution out of the valley and revealed the most beautiful view I have ever seen. I thought I would share it with you. This is from the roof of our little flat.
One of the challenges for westerners coming to Nepal is adjusting to the different culture. The sights, smells, and lifestyle changes are all new to us. When I walk down the street I draw alot of attention. I am a head taller than everyone and much fairer skinned. Often people will approach us and ask to hold our kids, especially luke. I guess they have never seen such a big baby!
There is another reason that we draw some attention. There has been alot of anti American sentiment these last few weeks. This is causing some serious lifestyle changes. We have a curfew, we can only travel to certain places, and some are even choosing to move to avoid any problems. All of this takes alot of getting used to.
Combine this with learning a new job, acquiring a taste for stuffed mutton lung, and learning how to shower in a bucket and you can imagine the culture stress. Thanks for your prayers.
This morning, Kody and I walked to Patan hospital for a tour. My expectations were little--I simply expected to find out where to go for an emergency, how to make a doctor's appointment in the private clinic, etc.
But what I found were scads of people waiting in line for the Leprosy Clinic. As a westerner, I am naive to think that Leprosy is an illness of the past. But it is very real here in Nepal. It was a wake up call for me as I saw the physical, and in a sense spiritual needs of the Nepali people.
Sadly, there is no expression on their faces, no twinkle in their eyes, no hope. Please join me in pr-ing that they would have hope. Now may the G0d of hope fill you with all joy and peace in believing, so that you will abound in hope by the power of the H.S. Rom 15:13
Signs that you know you're not in Kansas anymore.....
1) When you go to a restaurant, you can order fried stuffed mutton lung. Tasty!
2) When blowing your nose is replaced with shooting a "snot rocket" -- and is perfectly acceptable!!!
3) When you see a family of five all together on one motorbike--baby and all!
4) When drivers honk here it is considered a polite warning to get out of the way!
5) When you say, "Howdy, y'all" and people give you the strangest look. (Hmmm....I wonder if that is a bad word in Nepali.)
6) When we are standing in our shower bucket and are blasted by scalding/freezing/scalding/freezing trickles of water. Makes us understand why some Nepalis usually bathe just once per week!
7) When riding your bike is like taking your life into your own hands! The lines in the middle of the road are just a suggestion....(They also drive on the "wrong" side of the road here.)
More reasons to come.....Please pray that we keep our sense of humor as we adjust to everything different here in Nepal.
This past week has been a very exciting one. Each day I leave Shawna and the kids and walk to work about 1 hour each way. The walk is great because I feel like it is the best way to start acclimating to this new culture. I walk past buddhists burning incense, beggars asking for money, garbage burning, butchers cutting on a goat, and armed soldiers. The sights and smells are almost overwhelming.
Several times throughout my day I am struck with the reality that I am starting all over again. I know hardly anyone here. I am learning a new job. I cannot even speak the language. I feel like I am a child again.
A few nights ago I struck up a conversation with a 12 year old named Om that I met on my walk home. He is from a very low caste and he was hoping to persuade me to give him some money. I started asking for help with my Nepali and after about 30 minutes I picked up a few more words. It seems ironic that I am asking a 12 year old who has already dropped out of school for help learning something.
At the end of our conversation I asked Om if I could buy him a Coke. He was excited and eagerly followed me to the nearest restaurant. My heart broke as I opened the door to the restaurant. I had accidentally chosen a restaurant that he was not allowed to go in because of his poor caste. He looked terrified when I asked him to go in and have a seat.
The caste system is something else that I am learning about. A persons caste is chosen at birth and one cannot upgrade to another caste in this lifetime. Hindus and Buddhists believe that the more they suffer in this life the better chance they have of being reincarnated into a better caste in the next life. Please pray for freedom for these wonderful people like Om.
Thanks to technology, there are many ways to keep in contact with us while we are in Nepal.
Mailing Address:
United Mission to Nepal
Attn: Jon/Shawna Cronan
PO Box 126
Kathmandu, Nepal
PHONE: (9771) 5523350
EMAIL: cronans@therocc.org
OR, write a comment on www.therocc.org/cronans
Your communication will be cherished!
PS--I've also heard that you can get packages easily here. Simply make sure that the packages are wrapped and taped very securely. Some items that we cannot get easily here: AAAA batteries, good coffee that doesn't taste burnt!!, Coffeemate powdered creamer (vanilla or hazelnut--yes I know this is frivolous but gimme a break--I take a shower standing in a bucket!!!), ziplock bags (large and small), kitchen towels (not white), chocolate chips, deodorant, and hand sanitizer (which is needed very much!)
Today is our third full day in Nepal. We have been greeted by new friends, sounds, and even smells. But we are enjoying ourself, and are doing our best to settle in.
We live in the top floor of a two story flat down a brick path. At the end of our path, there is a temple that the locals visit to worship. As we were awake this morning at 4am (thanks to Kody) we heard the bells ring as the locals worshiped in the temple. What a great reminder to pray for the Nepali people!
Every time I hear a bell, I will pray for the people of Nepal. Right now the bell is ringing. It is my understanding that it is their duty to visit the temples each day.
"Comfort, comfort my people, says your God. Speak tenderly to "Nepal," and proclaim to her that her hard service has been completed, that her sin has been paid for, that she has received from the Lord's hand double for all her sins." Isaiah 40:1-2
I am so excited to be writing you from Kathmandu Nepal. Finally, after two years of training and anticipation we are here.
I could write a book about the plane ride over, but I will spare you most of the excitement. Needless to say, I was terrified for most of the trip but we made it. The kids and I had very few meltdowns on the way over. I have to say that it was not as bad as I had expected.
You can imagine how tired we were after traveling for 48 hours. We all had jet lag and when we finally crashed in our new home I felt so tired that I dont think I could have made it another 30 minutes. The kids had another plan for us. They too were exhausted, cranky, and in need of a long nights sleep. The problem came when their internal alarm clocks prevented them from sleeping. They kept us up all night.
The next day I had hoped to unpack. That plan was thrown out when the UMN requested that we "stop by." We made arrangements to stop by and several hours later made it back home. The problem is that I need to learn how to do my job in the next two weeks because the guy that I am replacing is leaving. I have so much work to do that I have no idea how I will get it done.
Our flat is quickly becoming home. We have the second floor of a small concrete house. It has two bedrooms, one bathroom, and a kitchen. We usually have running water and electricity. Our neighbors are great and they are fascinated with the tall white people moving in next door. Some have brought us cookies, others have shown off their flowers in the garden that we share with them, and others just watch from a distance.
Everyone at headquarters is very friendly. They are anxious to see how we can help. It seems that my name has caused many of them to form a preconceived idea of what to expect. "His name is Jon Wayne and apparently he knows alot about guns." I can only imagine their dissapointment when they expect to see some huge cowboy and get me instead.
My job is very exciting. I sat on the edge of my chair with sweaty palms yesterday as the guy that I will be replacing told me about what they would expect of me. I will be traveling around to the different work sites, training the personnel on how to respond to several different kinds of threats. The travel is the exciting part. ..............."You will have to ride a helicopter from the nearest road to get back to the work site or else you will have to walk for days."................... "This work site has no white people and only three people there speak english. You will have to fly on the scariest plane ride that I have ever been on to get back to it."..To name only a few comments from our conversation.
I could keep writing for days but I better not. Kody, Luke, and Shawna have been asleep for over 14 hours and I have to go to work. Please pray for our continued safety and join us in thanks for God not sending us alone. He has been with us every step of the way.
This week is a busy week as we pack everything we can into 12 suitcases and fly out on November 8th. The stress is mounting and it is even worse as we say goodbye to everyone. Yesterday we went to the River Oaks Community Church for the last time. We lingered in the parking lot not wanting it to be over. Our life will never be the same.
The stress of leaving is further aggravated by a statement from the Department of the State issuing a travel warning to US citizens wanting to travel to Nepal. The warning stated that US citizens should not travel to Nepal right now due to increased terrorist activity and kidnapping of US citizens.
The increased hostility toward Americans is due to the US blocking assets to the Maoists by barring any transactions or dealings with the organization. "Destroying infastructure, attacking government offices, and intimidating villagers through torture, and murders, the CPN-M has disrupted normal government operations and economic development efforts throughout the country," according to the statement.
We still believe that this is what God has called us to do and we are still leaving on the 8th unless we are denied access into the country. We leave brandishing the full armor of God and have faith that this is His Will. Please join us in prayer for this war torn country.
